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Printed edition




Fashion Week on film


Autumn Winter 2020/2021


Visual story on 35mm film by Gili Biegun

Video by Olga Makarova

Editor's note: Milan fashion week shows were scheduled to begin on the 17th of February, but with the outbreak of the Corona Virus in Italy, the last shows of the week went out without an audience or were cancelled.

The speed in which the virus spreads globally in over populated areas impacted the life of billions, among them workers in the fashion industry. Along side personal responsibility, community and environmental responsibility actions must be taken, as our planet no longer has the capacity to handle our mindless consumption and behavior.

With a growing number of fashion houses encouraging mindful consumption and using environmentally friendly materials, the industry is taking a new path that might bring a brighter future to our home.

Calcaterra AW2021

''Whats Inspires you?''

''1952: Pianist David Tudor sits at the piano in the packed Maverick Concert Hall of New York. The
audience takes their seats, unaware that Tudor is about to perform one of the pieces destined to become
a pillar of contemporary music conceived by the brilliant American composer John Cage.
The title of the work is 4’33”: 4 minutes and 33 seconds of pure silence.
“From the musical composition 4’33” and its performance, one expects a sonorous representation of thought and form. Instead, we are presented with an action that does not follow the usual rules but interrupts and suspends known significant element — sound — to reveal unknown silence. An almost total absence of sound-noise initially leads to a shared sense of bewilderment and still silence, then it dissolves to allow the most varied reactions to emerge. In this space, silence — meaning an acceptance of existing sounds — becomes music and it is only the clock and time prescribed by the composer that end it.” Mario Brunello “What inspires you?” is the question that the Calcaterra Fall-Winter 2020/21 collection asks us, abandoning the unnecessary to focus on the essential, in a minimalism reminiscent of Silence by Cage. The collection becomes a form of defense against the superfluous.
From this comes the poetry of “irrational basics”: pure and precious volumes, lengths and fabrics move like silent notes, redesigning the vision of style that offers echoes of simplicity from different eras.

The collection features “discarded” elements with unlikely combinations: eighties-style bomber jackets worn with jeans from the early nineties and interstitial outerwear with twenties-style geometric motifs layered over more masculine, sleek silhouettes. This anthological collection goes beyond history and modernity, focusing on the function of clothes stripped of their superstructures: primordial and seemingly historicized elements are the sole protagonists of the collection. The absence of noisy details leaves room for the poetry of memory, where each and every garment
seems to have a story to tell, evoking unexpected places and spaces. The new Calcaterra collection wants to question the very meaning of the word “fashion”, startling viewers with “the power of one’s
silence” and leaving them dumbfounded, just like Cage’s 4 minutes and 33 seconds.''


''Fall Winter 2020 for MARYLING is enclosed within the "Grand Bazaar Hideaway", a collection with folk and contemporary inspiration but, at the same time, with a profound connection with the natural world. The inspiration comes from the great bazaars of Istanbul whose microcosms of history, culture and craftsmanship transcend centuries of evolution. In the same way, the vision of the fashion house amplifies the desire to explore ancient civilization while remaining anchored in the modern and technological world.

The creative heart of the collection is the work of Jean-Michel Coulon, a twentieth-century French painter capable of exploring color and texture. In particular, his monochromatic block prints similar to landscapes present a unique connection with the light and colors of large Turkish bazaars, ideally becoming the starting point of a collection that stands out for its personal use of unique and distinctive colors and textures. The result is a prêt-à-porter collection dedicated to enhancing authentic, natural and creative femininity that possesses the MARYLING spirit.''

Hand-painted ceramics, printed fabrics, and Kilim rugs: an intense and profound vision is at the basis of the motifs and prints that guide the collection. The strengths are references to the powerful attraction of the oldest trades and the textures of rugs and fabrics whose power also unfolds in the present and reveals references and motifs with a strong creative influence. Free reign is given to paisley prints and Arab-inspired graphics combined with design elements alongside winter textures — mohair and wool, first and foremost — which are used to create intensely tactile garments able to protect against the coldest temperatures.

By combining knitwear, dresses and trousers, the collection amplifies the sleek lines and clean shapes of its looks. The all-over patchwork print silk dresses are inspired by the liveliness of the bazaars, and there are also light wool skirts along with textured boiled wool coats and oversized cocoon coats that delicately envelop the body.

The color palette reflects nature in its warmest and most vibrant essence, indulging in shades of dark rose, camel, winter blues, shearling cream and lipstick red. Between patterns and prints, motifs and graphic elements, MARYLING designs the perfect feminine silhouette with a touch of pure avant-garde.''

maryling aw2021


A backstage experience with M.A.C Cosmetics

(This visual story will be a part of JOYS FASHION BOOK vol.7 AW2021)