FASHION BOOK VOL.6
Fashion Week on film
Autumn Winter 2020/2021
Visual story on 35mm film by Gili Biegun
Video by Olga Makarova
Editor's note: Milan fashion week shows were scheduled to begin on the 17th of February, but with the outbreak of the Corona Virus in Italy, the last shows of the week went out without an audience or were cancelled.
The speed in which the virus spreads globally in over populated areas impacted the life of billions, among them workers in the fashion industry. Along side personal responsibility, community and environmental responsibility actions must be taken, as our planet no longer has the capacity to handle our mindless consumption and behavior.
With a growing number of fashion houses encouraging mindful consumption and using environmentally friendly materials, the industry is taking a new path that might bring a brighter future to our home.
''Whats Inspires you?''
''1952: Pianist David Tudor sits at the piano in the packed Maverick Concert Hall of New York. The
audience takes their seats, unaware that Tudor is about to perform one of the pieces destined to become
a pillar of contemporary music conceived by the brilliant American composer John Cage.
The title of the work is 4’33”: 4 minutes and 33 seconds of pure silence.
“From the musical composition 4’33” and its performance, one expects a sonorous representation of thought and form. Instead, we are presented with an action that does not follow the usual rules but interrupts and suspends known significant element — sound — to reveal unknown silence. An almost total absence of sound-noise initially leads to a shared sense of bewilderment and still silence, then it dissolves to allow the most varied reactions to emerge. In this space, silence — meaning an acceptance of existing sounds — becomes music and it is only the clock and time prescribed by the composer that end it.” Mario Brunello “What inspires you?” is the question that the Calcaterra Fall-Winter 2020/21 collection asks us, abandoning the unnecessary to focus on the essential, in a minimalism reminiscent of Silence by Cage. The collection becomes a form of defense against the superfluous.
From this comes the poetry of “irrational basics”: pure and precious volumes, lengths and fabrics move like silent notes, redesigning the vision of style that offers echoes of simplicity from different eras.
The collection features “discarded” elements with unlikely combinations: eighties-style bomber jackets worn with jeans from the early nineties and interstitial outerwear with twenties-style geometric motifs layered over more masculine, sleek silhouettes. This anthological collection goes beyond history and modernity, focusing on the function of clothes stripped of their superstructures: primordial and seemingly historicized elements are the sole protagonists of the collection. The absence of noisy details leaves room for the poetry of memory, where each and every garment
seems to have a story to tell, evoking unexpected places and spaces. The new Calcaterra collection wants to question the very meaning of the word “fashion”, startling viewers with “the power of one’s
silence” and leaving them dumbfounded, just like Cage’s 4 minutes and 33 seconds.''
''Fall Winter 2020 for MARYLING is enclosed within the "Grand Bazaar Hideaway", a collection with folk and contemporary inspiration but, at the same time, with a profound connection with the natural world. The inspiration comes from the great bazaars of Istanbul whose microcosms of history, culture and craftsmanship transcend centuries of evolution. In the same way, the vision of the fashion house amplifies the desire to explore ancient civilization while remaining anchored in the modern and technological world.
The creative heart of the collection is the work of Jean-Michel Coulon, a twentieth-century French painter capable of exploring color and texture. In particular, his monochromatic block prints similar to landscapes present a unique connection with the light and colors of large Turkish bazaars, ideally becoming the starting point of a collection that stands out for its personal use of unique and distinctive colors and textures. The result is a prêt-à-porter collection dedicated to enhancing authentic, natural and creative femininity that possesses the MARYLING spirit.''
Hand-painted ceramics, printed fabrics, and Kilim rugs: an intense and profound vision is at the basis of the motifs and prints that guide the collection. The strengths are references to the powerful attraction of the oldest trades and the textures of rugs and fabrics whose power also unfolds in the present and reveals references and motifs with a strong creative influence. Free reign is given to paisley prints and Arab-inspired graphics combined with design elements alongside winter textures — mohair and wool, first and foremost — which are used to create intensely tactile garments able to protect against the coldest temperatures.
By combining knitwear, dresses and trousers, the collection amplifies the sleek lines and clean shapes of its looks. The all-over patchwork print silk dresses are inspired by the liveliness of the bazaars, and there are also light wool skirts along with textured boiled wool coats and oversized cocoon coats that delicately envelop the body.
The color palette reflects nature in its warmest and most vibrant essence, indulging in shades of dark rose, camel, winter blues, shearling cream and lipstick red. Between patterns and prints, motifs and graphic elements, MARYLING designs the perfect feminine silhouette with a touch of pure avant-garde.''
A backstage experience with M.A.C Cosmetics
(This visual story will be a part of JOYS FASHION BOOK vol.7 AW2021)
Luisa Spagnoli AW2021
“Fashion is a tiger's leap into the past” Walter Benjamin, 1940
''Luisa Spagnoli’s fall-winter 2020-21 collection was inspired by this reflection. In a constant play of references from past to present, following what the German philosopher defined “a tiger's leap”, Nicoletta Spagnoli has created a series of garments rich in fascination. These create the base for a relaxed and self-assured woman, in harmony with the Maison’s philosophy and with its founder, Luisa Spagnoli, who at the beginning of the 1900s, anticipating times, embodied the essence of emancipation.
A woman whose style represents femininity and freedom, and who, even when looking back, has a contemporary spirit. Thus, in an ideal balance between tradition and innovation, the brand’s timeless angora wool knit, is still the fil rouge of each collection.
“The feminine archetype evoked by these creations blends ‘70s glamour with Renaissance inspirations and details ‘stolen’ from the Flemish painting masters” says Nicoletta Spagnoli. As shown by the tweed pencil skirts combined with croc print belts; soft nappa pants tucked into on-tone boots; and a whole rainbow of empire-line angora knit dresses with wide gathered sleeves. Capes are one of the collection’s recurring themes, in which flashes of turquoise and lilac lighten the warm nuances of mustard and aubergine purple, beige and butter white. “Supple, knee-length or longer, down to the calf” Spagnoli explains “these cloaks, though avoiding any chivalric mood, are far from futuristic, and rather recall the fascination of style icons such as Marisa Berenson or Mahogany’s Diana Ross (1975)”.
Then, as elegance is all in the detail, an important role is played by accessories and bijoux. Next to pendent earrings and the long golden metal necklaces with the brand monogram, there are also interchangeable white organza collars and cuffs, attractive wide rim hats, kid-leather gloves reaching over the elbow, and finally Nicoletta, the newest bag in the collection: practical, capacious and sophisticated, hand-made in soft leather, and available in various shapes and colours.''
''The crunching snow beneath my feet
Breaks the silent of the winter night
Warm, soft, and full of peace
Cozy layer and layer, Cocoon coat
Memories drift on a blustery breeze
Rhapsody of Kalanchoe
Silk dress swaying with grace and elegance
Playful breaks with match and mismatch
The sense of happiness
Of joy in our freedom
The moon light that shines
Breath, embraced the nature
Earth hue bring out of who I am
Strong shoulder, midi-boots, skirt belt
Global child in vision
Generation to generation
Revisited, recast, reinvented the classic
Updated argyle, pleated skirt, knit diversity
Life in light and shadow
Natural sense of being
Happiness is where you find it''
Gilberto Calzolari AW2021
''It’s time to play with new rules. While social networks ﬂaunt wonderful fake lives, a world full of contrasts speaks to us of a system on tilt, where nature struggles under a severe climate change, seasons have lost their meaning (and I’m not just talking about the weather), and a global crisis forces us to reinvent ourselves. As always, fashion is the perfect mirror of what is happening - at once a faithful and distorted looking glass that projects illusions but also reveals the deepest signals of a society compelled to a radical change.
Titled “Tilt System”, the new collection by Gilberto Calzolari takes these contrasts by the horns, by highlighting the contradictions and by oﬀering surprising outﬁts to be mixed and reassembled at will, in a multifaceted wardrobe where “women’s” cuts paired with “men’s” fabrics and details, winter and summer clothes together, and styles from diﬀerent eras collapse into unusual, yet always glamorous silhouettes; and bright colours, clashing black & white stripes and dissonant geometries, as in a glitch, reveal a truly contemporary aesthetic. A virtuous answer to our new consumption habits and to the most diverse seasonal requests, in a statement against the mechanisms of mass production that force us to increasingly frenzied rhythms.
Needless to say, sustainability is always at the core of the brand's ethical values, between patterned wool from regenerated yarns; organza and crepe de chine in 100% organic and GOTS-certiﬁed silk; fake-fur; recovered vinyls and neoprene; and semi-gloss satins of recycled polyester from pet bottles, in a mix of avant-garde sustainable fabrics on one hand and, on the other, splendid warehouse stock fabrics discovered among reputable textile companies; up to the upcycling of unusual and original materials, a signature in Calzolari collections: in this case, broken umbrella sheets which, when recovered, become real dresses.
The result is precisely “Tilt System”: a virtuous example of conscious glamor that redeﬁnes the concept of luxury through the lens of sustainability, and is expressed not only in the choice of materials, but also in a new production approach. A "slow fashion" that in the name of a return to tailored quality and exclusivity, breaks with the frenetic seasonal model by oﬀering an eclectic and surprising year-long collection, which touches all seasons.
A new chapter in Gilberto Calzolari's artistic journey and an even more radical and innovative step forward: after celebrating nature - from the Arctic to the Italian countryside - by using unexpected recycled fabrics; after analysing the dichotomy between natural and artiﬁcial with references to contemporary art; and after addressing the issues of desertiﬁcation and pollution in the previous collection of nomadic women, warriors in a post-industrial desert, now the urge for environmental sustainability engulfs the very production cycles.''
FASHION BOOK VOL.6
JOYS Fashion Book vol.6 is a carefully curated collection of fashion, beauty and lifestyle visual stories. This edition explores the different meanings of sustainability and their impact on the industry and our future. Vol.6 features exclusive visuals and interviews from Paris, Milan, London, Moscow, Budapest, Belgrade and Ljubljana’s fashion weeks.
JOYS Fashion Book vol.6 is printed in Italy, distributed worldwide and was meant to be kept and not recycled. This book features only 100% original content from our unique point of view.