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A Shift in Identity
17/03/25
Article by Gili Biegun
Luxury fashion is in the midst of a major reset, with creative directors shifting across some of the industry’s most influential houses. Gucci, Chanel, Dior, and Versace are all undergoing leadership changes, raising questions about the future direction of these brands. As designers step down, new names step in, bringing fresh perspectives that could redefine the landscape of high fashion.
The fashion industry is undergoing a significant transformation, with major houses reshaping their creative leadership. Longstanding figures are stepping down, new names are taking over, and speculation about further changes is growing. These shifts are not just about personnel—they reflect broader discussions about identity, artistic direction, and commercial success in an increasingly competitive industry.
One of the most surprising announcements came from Versace. Donatella Versace, who has defined the brand’s aesthetic since taking over in 1997, has stepped down as creative director, moving into a role as chief brand ambassador. Her departure follows years of tension with Capri Holdings, which acquired the house in 2018. While Donatella championed the opulence and daring style that made Versace iconic, there were reported disagreements over how the brand should evolve under corporate ownership. Stepping into her role is Dario Vitale, a lesser-known designer outside industry circles but highly respected within them. Previously at Miu Miu, his appointment suggests Versace may be looking for a shift in direction—perhaps refining its image while maintaining the brand’s signature boldness.
Gucci, another powerhouse, is also seeing a major leadership change. Demna Gvasalia, best known for his disruptive approach at Balenciaga, is now taking over as Gucci’s creative director. His appointment follows a period of uncertainty for the brand, as Sabato De Sarno’s collections—while well-crafted—struggled to generate the same cultural momentum as his predecessor, Alessandro Michele. Demna’s move to Gucci suggests a push toward a more experimental aesthetic, one that could reestablish Gucci as a dominant force in contemporary fashion. Given his history of blending historical references with a sharp, modern edge, his tenure at Gucci will likely be one of the most closely watched in the coming years.
Balenciaga, meanwhile, is left with a significant gap to fill. Demna’s departure raises questions about the house’s next steps, as his vision largely defined its identity in recent years. Rumors are already circulating about possible successors, with names like John Galliano and Jonathan Anderson being mentioned. Galliano’s work at Maison Margiela has been widely praised, and a return to a major luxury house would be a compelling shift in his career. Anderson, on the other hand, has been transforming Loewe into one of the most artistically respected brands of the moment, making him another strong contender. However, Anderson’s departure from Loewe after an influential 11-year tenure adds another layer of uncertainty to the creative director shuffle. His leadership revitalized the Spanish luxury brand, blending traditional craftsmanship with contemporary design, and introducing iconic pieces like the Puzzle bag. Notably, Loewe did not present a fashion show this season, reflecting the transitional phase following Anderson's exit.
Chanel has also undergone a creative transition. Following Virginie Viard's departure after five years as artistic director, the house appointed Matthieu Blazy to lead its fashion activities, including haute couture, ready-to-wear, and accessories. Blazy, previously at Bottega Veneta, brings a fresh perspective to Chanel. During the interim period before Blazy's official start, Chanel's collections were designed by an in-house team, maintaining the brand's legacy while awaiting new creative direction.
Dior is another house facing speculation about a creative shake-up. Maria Grazia Chiuri, who has led the brand since 2016, is rumored to be stepping down. Her tenure has been defined by a focus on craftsmanship, historical references, and a distinct feminist perspective. If she does leave, Dior will need to decide whether to continue in the same direction or take a different approach. Jonathan Anderson is a rumored frontrunner for the position, which, if true, would mark one of the most significant appointments in recent fashion history.
Meanwhile, Givenchy has already made its move, appointing Sarah Burton as its new creative director. Formerly at Alexander McQueen, Burton is known for her deep respect for craftsmanship and her ability to merge historical elements with contemporary tailoring. Her arrival at Givenchy marks a return to a more couture-driven approach, in contrast to Matthew Williams’ streetwear influence.
Other brands are also seeing changes. Bottega Veneta has appointed Louise Trotter, who previously led Lacoste and Carven. Her background suggests she will focus on refining the brand’s understated luxury. Celine, on the other hand, is moving on from Hedi Slimane, with Michael Rider now at the helm. Rider, who previously worked under Phoebe Philo, may steer the brand in a more balanced direction between classic and modern influences.
With so many shifts happening at once, this period marks a turning point for high fashion. Each of these appointments will shape the identity of these brands for years to come. The question now is whether these changes will bring lasting impact or lead to another cycle of departures and new directions. As always, the industry will be watching.