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MKDT Studio
Fall/Winter 2025
Copenhagen Fashion Week served as the backdrop for MKDT Studio’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection, where creative director Caroline Engelgaar explored the concept of friction—both physical and emotional—through sculptural silhouettes, layered textures, and a refined tension between technical and traditional materials. Presented at the National Gallery of Denmark (SMK), the show unfolded in a space where historical and modern architecture converge, echoing the collection’s theme of opposing forces in harmony.
The collection built upon the house’s tailoring heritage, redefining classic silhouettes through precise draping and sharp construction. Fabrics played a key role in expressing the idea of movement—cashmere and wool cocooned the body, while silk embroidered with glass pearls mimicked the vibrancy of sound waves. The color palette reflected an interplay of energies, balancing cool electric tones with grounded, earthy hues.
Accessories further reinforced the brand’s commitment to craftsmanship and longevity, with leather pieces created in collaboration with Dahlman 1807 and an exclusive jewelry collection developed with Kinraden. Footwear from HEREU Studio and gloves from Randers Handsker completed the styling, underscoring the label’s approach to refined essentials with depth and character.
The show’s sonic landscape was equally considered, featuring a fusion of metallic, repetitive sounds and live piano compositions, a direct nod to the influence of Swiss sound artist Zimoun. His exploration of rhythm and chaos resonated throughout the collection, reinforcing the duality of control and spontaneity.
I sat down with Caroline Engelgaar to discuss the inspirations, creative process, and vision behind MKDT Studio’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection.
G: Your AW25 collection is inspired by the concept of friction—both physical and emotional. How did you translate this abstract idea into the tangible elements of your designs?
C: Through the exploration of movement and energy we looked at how we could be translating the concept of friction into the AW25 collection. Could a garment embody the pulse of electricity or echo the rhythm of sound? These questions shaped the creative process, culminating in sculpted and layered silhouettes that convey depth and motion. Fabrics were meticulously selected to evoke energy through crafted detailing and tactility that friction the hand. We embellished silk with glass pearl embroidery with the vibrancy of sound waves, and traditional materials like cashmere, wool, and cotton were used to craft cocoon-like forms that embrace the body, contrasted with technical fabrics to infuse an element of tension. Even the color palette reflected this dynamic interplay, balancing cold, electric tones with warmer hues to create a harmonious dialogue between the electric, hard and the grounded, soft.
G: You mentioned being influenced by Swiss sound artist Zimoun and his exploration of rhythm and chaos. Can you tell us more about how his work informed the creative process for this collection?
C: Zimoun's exploration of rhythm and chaos was indeed a cornerstone for the inspiration to the AW25 collection. His installations, which use simple mechanical movements to create complex sensory experiences, embody the duality of order and disorder—much like the frictional forces in our world. This concept of friction became a metaphor for the times we live in, representing tension, resistance, and movement. Repetition, as seen in Zimoun's work, can be both unsettling and grounding, reflecting the balance we aimed to achieve in the collection. By channeling this energy, we transformed tension into creativity, with designs that harmonize contrasting forces of chaos and calm. Tactical materials that you can experience the friction of and opposites colliding in technical and natural textiles. The musical presentation for our AW25 show amplifies this feeling, blending metallic, repetitive sounds with the warmth of live piano, capturing a poetic balance of the mechanical and the human.
G: Movement plays a central role in your AW25 collection, particularly through Japanese paper-folding techniques and dynamic silhouettes. How do you see these elements redefining the way we experience clothing?
C: Japanese paper-folding techniques, with its heritage and elegance, worked as a central inspiration when reimagining movement for the AW25 collection. We studied the transformative nature of pleats and plissé—flat and understated when still, but dynamic and voluminous when activated. These intricate folding techniques celebrate craftsmanship and bring the collection’s layered, motion-driven vision to life. By emphasizing the artistry behind these details, the collection redefines clothing as not just functional and I hope that these elements can redefine the way we experience clothing in the way that we can underline that it is very much a craft, and a craft that should be the fuel that drives us, and that inspires the wearer.
G: The presentation space at SMK, where old and new architecture collide, seems to echo your theme of opposites meeting. How does the venue enhance the narrative of the collection?
C: You are absolutely right, it echoes and celebrates that meeting. The sculptural hall at SMK beautifully complements the collection’s narrative, with its dynamic meeting of historical and modern architecture. This space resonates with the idea of friction—where old and new coexist, creating energy through their contrast. The sculptures, timeless symbols of humanity, represent the convergence of individual stories into a unified whole, much like the collection’s designs.
G: Sustainability has been a key focus in past collections, such as the bio-based materials in SS25. How does the AW25 collection continue this dialogue about sustainability and craftsmanship?
C:Sustainability remains central to us in our development of every single garment, and with the continued advancement, with a focus on thoughtful material choices and craftsmanship. For AW25, we’ve introduced recycled wool into several of our Italian-made fabrics, adding to our range of classic wool fabrics made from certified organic virgin wool. We have also in partnership with Sarah Müllertz and Kinraden created jewelry made from recycled silver, and leather belts crafted with Dahlman1807 further highlight the commitment to sustainable and local craftsmanship.
We are committed to increasing the use of sustainable materials each season, ensuring they play an ever-larger role in our collections. With our tailoring heritage, we focus on creating garments that are well-crafted, high-quality, and designed to stand the test of time.
G: As you debut the AW25 collection at Copenhagen Fashion Week, what message or emotion do you hope to leave with the audience through this collection?
C: With the full establishment of MKDT Studio’s rebranding, the AW25 collection is a significant moment in the studio's evolution. It reflects a vision for modernity, aiming to connect with a contemporary audience through versatile, essential pieces that transcend traditional boundaries. The collection’s fluidity in gender and focus on individuality underscore our belief that clothing should inspire personal expression rather than conform to labels. By offering timeless, well-crafted garments that encourage ease and creativity, we hope to leave the audience with a sense of optimism and inspiration for the future of fashion and the craft of tailoring.